Let’s get this straight, provincials and tutting snobs – I’m not talking about doner kebabs here. Their inherent evils are well known and I’m not making a case for them, at least not now that Turkish Delight in Chorlton have stopped making their own doner from finest lamb shoulder. No, what I’m largely concerned with during this mini-series of blogs is documenting the Middle Eastern phenomenon known as kobedeh kebabs – a wondrous concoction of minced lamb, turmeric and spices served on a near-2 ft naan with sauces and salad. I shall highlight noteworthy Mancunian vendors of said slabs of lamby meat, in no particular order – the numbering system is merely chronological, as opposed to a TOTP-style chart placing.
Special dispensation will be given to fine purveyors of seekh kebabs (the minced lamb equivalent from the Indian subcontinent) and, grudgingly, to decent chicken kebabs if you’re that boring.
#2 – Jaffa, 185 Wilmslow Road, Manchester, M14 5AP
Following on nicely from last time, this week's featured kebaberie is located directly next door to Al-Quds. As such, you can sample both places if particularly hungry, or make a mental note for your next fix. There's even a sink in the main restaurant area – useful for scrubbing the turmeric from under your fingernails in time for that departmental meeting at work later in the afternoon.
Meat: No kobedeh (or equivalent) here, so Jaffa has made it into the guide by virtue of the marvellous alternatives on offer, namely the mixed grill of lamb and chicken. Consisting of fantastically tender and lean spiced cuts of lamb, seasoned wonderfully and complemented by boneless chicken thigh meat rolled flat for grilling, sometimes it's important to ditch the mince and opt carnivorously for chunks of proper flesh (I was actually a veggie once, you know.) Honorary mention should go to the exquisite lamb shawarma with houmous as sampled by Sam, my glamorous assistant.
Bread: A rather thin and small flatbread – adequate for the task, but without the doughy, filling satisfaction of Al-Quds' enormous naan equivalent. This could be deemed a criticism, but sometimes it's nice to leave a kebaberie feeling just so, rather than about to burst and in need of a sponsored walk to John O'Groats to burn off calories that would satisfy a hibernating bear.
Salad: A pleasant array of lettuce, tomatoes and spiced onions, lightly doused in soothing yoghurt. Unfortunately, it's rather cucumber-heavy, though my ongoing problem with this phallic salad-spoiler is not the fault of Jaffa (before you start, it is NOT tasteless, being grossly offensive and lingering even when removed.) The pickled chillis are fresh and tasty – I tend to eat them first as a little starter, capsicum fans.
Sauce: Korma fans stop reading now – this is not for the faint-hearted. An intense dollop of fresh diced chilli sauce is present on your plate when served and I recommend you go easy with it, though if used sparingly and gradually it complements things rather nicely.
Ambience: Again, the Asian denizens of Rusholme are fans, so clearly the friendly and likeable chappies who run the place are doing something right. Almost getting into low-rent restaurant territory as opposed to kebab vendor (though let's not get too carried away), it may be a good venue to bring a non-believer for their initiation into the ways of righteousness. Excellent Arabic mint tea too.
Join me next time for more exciting adventures in spicy minced lamb, dear friends.
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